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Join Crisis Application Group!Although triggers may be made to look awesome and indeed significantly up the performance of what would otherwise be a standard firearm, there remains a vast level of places where this simply is not an option. Most law enforcement agencies will not allow personnel to modify their duty weapons, leaving that factory trigger in place. Guess what? DEAL WITH IT!! You had damned well better learn to operate that weapon with the garbage trigger the maker thoughtlessly crammed in there - not taking into account that boxes of bullets you may have to sling at the zombie horde. Personally I feel the same way about many mechanical modifications as I do about other upgrades. Worth it? You bet your ass. So long as your SKILL matches the money spent. You may not have the luxury of always having a heavily modified race pistol always at your disposal. Better hope you trained that stock trigger to the best of your ability. Think of it this way: put it in the same category as your iron sights. Sure, lots of people race out and drop a fancy sight or scope on their weapon as fast as they can afford to. But - do they really have good cause? Or do we go back and reread "Tacticool" again? *Sigh* If you're not shooting 3 Gun or some other form of competition where speed is a measured factor...spend the money on TRAINING. Here come the comments about that extra .023 seconds that could save your life in a gunfight. From people that have NEVER been in one and likely never will. I'm not saying not make the mods. I'm saying to make the mods once your are FULLY COMPETENT to use them effectively.
Green Beret moderated forum for only $1 a month!Note that here at Crisis Application Group, we base our curriculum more on "grey matter investment" than measuring barrels. Making sure that your mind and body are trained equally to the task of the sexiest weapons. Now...make your argument! [caption id="attachment_981" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Firearms, Tactical & Defense Training[/caption]
Green Beret moderated forum for only $1 a month!The sniper employs a combination of skills which include camouflage, concealment, radio communications, and an in depth knowledge of exterior ballistics and fieldcraft, among other things. A sniper may engage targets from any range within his rifle's maximum effective range, sometimes pushing that envelope even farther. Typically targets will be beyond 4-5 hundred meters, which is beyond the range the average soldier is trained with the typical service rifle. Typically, a sniper carries out specific missions and has little to no support. Some examples of rifles used by the Sniper are the SR-25, M24, Mk13, M14, Remington MSR and many others. The Designated Marksman (DM), sometimes called Squad Designated Marksman (SDM) are terms that are often mistakenly used interchangeably with the term Sniper. The role is entirely different. Their role is to provide rapid accurate fire for their fireteam out to about 500 meters. They usually use more accurized versions of the weapons used on the fireteam, though not always the case. Some examples would be the 5.56mm SPR Mk 12, the M110 SASS or other semi-automatic rifles. Now that we have those two definitions out of the way, its up to you to decide if you have a need for either of those two skill sets. I have found that the sniper concept has been romanticized to the point that folks want the skill more than need it. Just be honest with yourself and say you are enamored by the concept and just want to shoot at those ranges for fun. That's perfectly acceptable. Now for the real meat and potatoes, what it takes to lay down precision fire at long distances. I don't care if you have more money than sense and spent all your preparedness money on an $8000 suppressed Surgeon rifle chambered in .338 Lapua, topped with a Knightforce scope, if you don't have the knowledge and skill to employ it, you have a heavy telescope at best. Don't get me wrong, equipment choice and quality are VERY important but skills are equally important. You have to be able to shoot tight groups consistently. There are a lot of factors involved it hitting a 10” target at 1000 meters, which seems to be everyone's dream. Let me explain:
Join the Crisis Application Group today!The semi-automatic rifle has more moving parts, thus is more susceptible to malfunctions and people have a tendency to just keep pulling the trigger because, well, they can. This also heats up the barrel. They also tend to cost a little more (for a good one). On the up side, you can have a larger capacity magazine, because it self loads you don't tend to remove your face from the stock (so you are still looking through the scope for a follow up shot), and you can shoot faster. In my opinion, I bipod is almost a necessity for a long range precision rifle, as well as a good sling and a shooting sock. Always cheat when you can. All 3 of these can take a lot of human error out of the equation and that's a good thing. A bipod can be extended and put against a wall to provide a good supported position for shooting from the standing position (just be cognizant of your muzzle). A sling can be wrapped around your wrist to provide stability. A shooting sock can be placed under the buttstock to provide a nice, squeeze adjustable rest which acts similarly to the bipod. There are many uses and variations but I won't go into them all. [gallery columns="2" size="medium" ids="1987,1989"] I have omitted scope selection here because I think it was covered enough for this article above. However, this is a good segue into range finders. If your scope doesn't have a reticle that allows you to accurately calculate range (or you don't know how to use it) you need a rangefinder. They aren't exactly cheap either if you get one that can accurately read out to 1000m. One does not simply buy a Mosin-Nagant at the surplus store and go to the nearest 1000 meter soybean field and slay targets. While that gun could, with the right modifications and shooter, do that, why not get something from the modern era? There are people that shoot 1000 yard (learn to use the metric system if you want to shoot long range) matches with old 45-70 Sharps rifles from the 1870s with iron sights but does that pass the smell test for the prepper? If it was so awesome, why aren't we (Special Forces) using it? I can tell you it isn't because of budget cuts. To put this into perspective, I'll give you the setup of one of my frugal long range precision systems (pictured above), and it works. Remington 700 PSS in 300 Winchester Magnum-$700 (I recommend a 308 due to short barrel life of the 300WM), Larue 20 MOA base-$75, Les Baer 30mm scope rings-$100, 20 year old Leupold M1 Ultra fixed 20x scope-$1000, Harris adjustable short bipod with swivel lock-$90, adjustable cheekpiece on a modified factory HS Precision stock-$120, tactical bolt knob, trigger job and threaded barrel with a muzzle brake-3 organic chickens and a bunch of free range eggs or about $200, a Leupold rangefinder-$500 and Ballistic AE ballistic app for Iphone-$20. That's a grand total of about $2800 but keep in mind, this is a system, not just a rifle. I have a bunch of other accessories like a drag bag and other things that I did not count. Most of the accessories on this gun were much cheaper and I got them in trades but those are realistic numbers if you are paying cash. You can do it cheaper by getting different brand names of items but do not skimp on the scope. The barrel and the scope are the two most important items of the rifle in terms of accuracy and long range shooting. One scope I recommend is the Bushnell HDMR with a Tremor 2 or Horus 59 reticle. Those reticles seem complicated but once you know how to use them they are deadly and worth their weight in gold. The Bushnell offers all the same features of the infinitely more expensive tactical scopes with near the same quality for 1/3rd the price. If you look you can find someone trying to sell a used one cheaper than the average $1500 price tag. I know that sounds like a lot but you can't put a cheap Chinese scope on a gun and expect to consistently do what the big boys do. What does this all mean? Shooting precisely out to 1000m (which appears to be most peoples goal) is not really that easy, it requires a lot of training and cannot be consistently achieved with crappy gear. Is it worth your money to have this capability? Is the capability even a realistic goal in your preparedness scenario? If this is still something you would like to pursue, let us know. We have Special Forces Sniper qualified instructors to teach you. You don't need an $8000 setup, we can teach you within the limitations of your current equipment and you can grow from there. However you must know those limitations and have realistic goals. There is a tremendous amount of information to be covered on long range precision shooting and this article barely scratches the surface. De Oppresso Liber. [caption id="attachment_981" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Firearms, Tactical & Defense Training[/caption]
Join the Crisis Application Group!Quality night visions can be had relatively inexpensively. From any one of various online suppliers to gun shows to even eBay and amazon. Typically for a weapon mounted system, I'd say the tried and true PVS-14 like the one shown here, Gen 3 or better. Solid balance of features vs cost. Head mount, weapon mount or standalone...the PVS-14 is going to meet your needs. Is that the only choice? NO. But it's one of the best. What are your needs? Why would you mount night vision to a weapon system? There are indeed several angles to see this from. The actuation of a weapon light may not always be the best option when low/no light scenarios play out. The ability to see when others cannot need not be explained in detail. Hunting in a grid-down situation could make vastly easier using infrared. Threat identification and maintaining stealth also cannot be overstated. The ability to dismount the sight and use it in "standalone" mode is also, in my honest opinion, critical. In complete, 100% darkness, modern night vision are equipped with a device called an "IR illuminators". Essentially a built-in infrared flashlight. No light? No problem. Can less expensive NVG's handle the shock of a modern firearm? I can't speak for the under $1000 versions. I'm sure they have their strengths. One of the most imperative features is the "image intensifier tube". The part of the NVG that actually interprets and projects the image you see. Older tubes were made of glass which were notorious for breakage. Modern, more advanced NVG's tubes are made of a composite material which is much more robust and thus can take more punishment. Care and feeding of your NVG's is a topic that many people who have limited or no exposure will want to invest time in. Typical models employ one or two "AA" batteries, so locating power for your night vision shouldn't be a problem. Also to consider is your intended usage overall. Firearm mounted NV tends to be "monocular" or single tube units. There are several other types of night vision that would be equally effective in a head/helmet mounted setup. Just depends on your as the user.
Green Beret Moderated forum for only $1 a month!Bottom line you have to answer is: Do I NEED this or WANT it? To ME, that answer is subjective. I feel personally that due to its obvious strategic and tactical advantage...it's a NEED. But that's me. At Crisis Application Group, we are prepared to make sure your needs and wants balance out in your plans for prepping for any scenario. [caption id="attachment_981" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Firearms, Tactical & Defense Training[/caption]
Green Beret Moderated Forum for only 1$ a month!They are providing a quality product at a great price and doing so in a time when that's not so easy. You are going to very soon be seeing their entire product line available in our CAG online store. This will also be an ongoing review process as we are looking very much forward to seeing more of their products up close. Part 2 of this review will be range review where we put this model through it's paces... #newprepperfirearmhotness #awinningteam #atibalisdoinwork #preppersaintcheap [caption id="attachment_981" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Firearms, Tactical & Defense Training[/caption]
Green Beret moderated forum for only $1 a month!Never to be at a lack of upgrades, modifications, or performance enhancements - the Glock 19 is a solid fit in the hands of the most battle hardened operator or the newest lady shooter, having never touched a firearm previously. User friendly fire control, no clumsy exterior controls or levers to get hung up on, the G19's sleek lines won't bind up in a holster or get hung in a cover garment when making a draw in a defensive scenario. No special tools or complicated breakdown procedures, the G19 breaks down in three easy steps. Presto, you're done. Lubricant/CLP of your choice and she's battle ready. Using it's own magazines or it's bigger brother's, it's combat adaptable to almost any scenario. Robust in it's construction, the finish is highly corrosion and scratch resistant. You won't have to worry about it being to susceptible to too much as far as wear and tear is concerned.
Join the Crisis Application Group!Many makers out there have found that they can make near perfect better. There are barrels, pin kits, triggers, frame enhancements, lights and sights...well...you get the point. And if you think by now that we dig Glocks, you'd be spot on! We do. And with good reason. No, we are not sponsored by them. We receive no kickback from them. We simply go with what works and what we've come to trust and feel comfortable recommending you trust as well. While we agree there is NO such thing as a "one stop solution", the G19 is pretty darned close. It performs very well under combat stresses as we effectively demonstrated to our recent pistol clinic class held in Ohio. [caption id="attachment_911" align="aligncenter" width="300"] G19 in action during the Ohio tactical clinic[/caption] We are interested in your feedback whether you agree or not. Your opinions are equally valid, just make sure you use fact and reason as your tools!
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Sources and citations:
article: FBI report on 9mm lethality
article: 9mm Justification for FBI
article: SOF and 9mm Glock
article: SOF converting to the 9mm Glock
article: SMU and the 9mm Glock
article: Glock popularity and availability
article: Glock is easy to learn
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Join the Crisis Application Group today!Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead: If you don't know what you are doing, the worst thing you can do to a rifle is shove a cleaning rod down the barrel. That's right. I'm going to fill you in on something that competitive shooters have known for 20 or more years, but hasn't really seemed to percolate out to the general shooting public. You've probably heard that competitive shooters are fanatics about keeping their rifles, and especially the bores, shiny clean. You may have even heard some apocryphal stories about gunsmiths who received rifles that "just wouldn't shoot good anymore" and all they needed was a good cleaning. All of this is at least partially true. But without the right equipment, pushing a discount store cleaning rod down the barrel of your rifle can permanently damage the rifling, especially in the critical throat area where the rifling begins ahead of the chamber and at the muzzle. You can also end up with cleaning solvents leaking out of and under the action, softening the critical bedding areas. All of these things, and more, can ruin the fine accuracy of a perfectly good rifle, just from doing something that you THINK is helpful.
Green Beret moderated forum! $1 a month for unlimited, ad free access!Damage to the bore is generally caused by the cleaning rod contacting the barrel steel, and the use of some types of bore cleaners can make the damage occur faster. Sectioned rods are out. They just have too much flex in them. Pushing them down the bore with a jag and patch that actually fit will result in the rod contacting the bore. In addition, the sections never fit together absolutely perfectly, resulting in ridges that can pick up carbon grit and/or physically damage the barrel itself. Never ever use a stainless steel cleaning rod.... for that matter, never put anything that's stainless steel in the bore of your rifle. You don't need anything that's anywhere close to the hardness of the barrel steel itself in there. Likewise, don't use uncoated brass or aluminum rods. They can pick up carbon grit or abrasive bore cleaners that can do a very fine job of unintentional lapping. Just ask a machinist what you can do with an aluminum rod charged with grit. [caption id="attachment_664" align="aligncenter" width="500"] Pic from Gunn Innovations www.spinjag.com[/caption] This is an extreme example, but that's often the best way to illustrate a point. The point is: either do it the simple way, or go whole hog, but don't inbetween it. (I'm not one of those people who advocate never cleaning a rifle. Torture tests are interesting but I was taught to acquire fine tools and then take care of them.) [caption id="attachment_665" align="aligncenter" width="660"] CLP and a bore snake is the fast and easy way to bore clean without damage.[/caption] The simple way is with a basic bore solvent and a bore snake. Squirt a little solvent down the bore, being careful to get it into the chamber and not into the action, and then drop the bore snake weight down the barrel while keeping the bore pointed down. Step on the string end of the bore snake with your foot and pull on the rifle to get the bore snake started in the bore. This procedure keeps the solvent from running back into the action. Once you have the bore sealed, you can invert the rifle and pull the bore snake all of the way out. If you suspect the bore is especially dirty, you can repeat this procedure several times. Before you finish, pull the bore snake through the bore several times without adding solvent, and you are done with bore cleaning. [caption id="attachment_666" align="alignleft" width="300"] A correct cleaning rod is one piece, coated, has a ball bearing spin handle, and is specific to the caliber of the bore you are cleaning[/caption] This is the correct kind of cleaning rod. It's one piece brass covered in a protective nylon coating, it's caliber specific to prevent flexing, and it has a ball bearing on the handle so brushing and patching tools rotate with the rifling. The one pictured is a Dewey. Boretech also makes some fine cleaning rods. There are probably others but these are the two that I have used, and the ones I see other competitive shooters using. Even with the proper coated cleaning rod, you don't just shove it down the bore. You need what's called a rod guide to hold the rod centered in the bore. For any rifle that can be cleaned from the chamber end (bolt guns and ARs) they can also seal the chamber so solvent doesn't leak back into the receiver. Rod guides are available from a few places but I highly recommend the ones from Sinclair International, purveyors of many fine tools and supplies for cleaning and reloading. [caption id="attachment_667" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Sinclair bore guides are made of machined delrin plastic with an O-ring seal.[/caption] The bore guide is inserted into the receiver where it guides the rod, seals the chamber, and provides a port to apply solvents, so you can keep cleaners in the barrel and not on your rifle. For an AR platform they also sell some handy little links that hold the receivers apart just right for cleaning. This is how it looks on an AR: [caption id="attachment_668" align="aligncenter" width="225"] Sinclair makes the bore guide and the link used to hold the receivers apart.[/caption] This is doing it right. The rifle is held so it's slightly muzzle down, allowing excess cleaner to run out the end of the barrel instead of into the action. A bore guide is in the receiver to seal the chamber and guide the cleaning rod. [caption id="attachment_669" align="aligncenter" width="660"] Doing it right.[/caption] In part two, I'll cover the proper process for using a cleaning rod in more detail, including more specifics about brushes, jags, patches, and cleaning compounds.
One of our early attempts at video making.
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