Altopia Farms

Altopia Farms

Cole Crops and Cole Slaw

Ever wonder where the term “Cole Slaw” comes from? Turns out it is made from one of the “Cole” crops which are plants from the mustard family. Those include: mustard, cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, collards, kale, turnips, cauliflower and watercress.Ever wonder where the term “Cole Slaw” comes from? Turns out it is made from one of the “Cole” crops which are plants from the mustard family. Those include: mustard, cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, collards, kale, turnips, cauliflower and watercress. These are all cool season crops that can be planted in fall and harvested in early spring or planted in early spring and harvested in early summer. Some are more sensitive to heat or cold than others. Lets take a look at each.

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Cabbage-Everyone is familiar with cabbage. There are early producing varieties and late varieties. Smooth head varieties and Savoyed varieties. Most varieties can withstand temperatures in the teens. Harvest when the tight outer leaves of the main head begin to curl back on themselves. Cabbage can be stored in the same hole it was dug from by placing it “head” first into the ground with the roots sticking up during the cold moths. Just dig it out when needed. Obviously it can be stored in the crisper in the bottom of the fridge. You can also make it into kraut and can it. If you want to save seed, either plant an early maturing variety in early spring and when you harvest the head, cut an “x” into the stalk and it will send up shoots and they will flower. Technically it is a biennial and means it takes two seasons to make seed. I have left heads on and allowed them to go to seed the next year. You can also harvest in late fall, remove the roots and store them in damp sawdust. Replant the roots in spring and allow to send up shoots that will flower and set seed. Broccoli- There are varieties that set one nice spear and sprouting varieties grow that multiple florets that can be cut continuously. Even varieties that have one big spear will send up shoots and create several more smaller spears. Broccoli fairs well in 60 degree weather but can tolerate frost if it hasn't created a spear. Often cold weather makes them sweeter. If the spears get frost on them, they will likely rot. Harvest the spears while the little buds are all tightly together. It doesn't take long before they spread out and grow stems with pretty yellow flowers all over them. Store at 32 degrees for up to 2 weeks or blanch and freeze it. Make sure you soak it it cold water to encourage the caterpillars to come out of hiding. There's nothing like some surprise protein in your broccoli and cheese.

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Save seed by allowing the flowers to grow and set seed after you have harvested the main spear. Cauliflower- There are several varieties, some yellow, white, some that are crossed with broccoli and create mesmerizing patterns (Veronica). Timing is crucial with cauliflower, heads, aka curds, will not form in hot dry weather. Harvest when curds are tight. You may need to tie up the larger outer leaves around the curds to blanch them. Store at 32 degrees for up to 2 weeks or add them to relish recipes and can them. Allow spring plants to flower and set seed. Collards/Kale- I am particularly fond of Siberian Red Kale. I like to add it to fresh from the garden salads. Bold are cold hardy but choose collards for warmer temperatures. Kale is frost tolerant and can withstand a little drought. Both can usually overwinter. Harvest when leaves get big as desired. Store in the fridge. I like to cut it up and run it through the salad spinner and place in plastic bags for up to a week or more. You can make it last longer in the fall if you cut out the heart with the plant and store in a plastic bag. To save seed, allow the plant to mature, grow flowers and set seed. Kohlrabi- This is an interesting plant. You can eat the leaves (as with all the cole crops, yes, broccoli leaves are good) as well as the swollen stem of the plant. It kinda looks like an above ground turnip with cabbage like leaves. There are white, red and purple varieties. It prefers cooler temperatures. Harvest the leaves and/or the bulbous stem when it is 3-5 inches in diameter. Don't let it get too big or it will get a woody texture. Store in the fridge for a couple weeks. Allow it to grow flowers and set seeds to harvest seeds for the next year. Turnips/Mustard/Rutabagas- There are leaf producing turnips (7 Top) and root producing turnips (Purple Top). Leaves can be eaten from either. Mustard is is a leaf crop (unless you harvest the seed for ground mustard). Rutabagas look a lot like turnips but taste more sweet with a yellow flesh and store well. Harvest after a couple hard frosts. Store in the fridge for a couple weeks. Brussels Sprouts- Last but not least, every kids favorite, baby cabbage heads. Grow just like fall crop cabbage. Plant in summer and as the tiny cabbages take shape, cut the leaf stalks away. The tiny cabbages will start out at the base and make their way up. To encourage more uniform size of each sprout, cut of the top of the plant. Allow them to get hit with a frost for an even more flavorful treat. Harvest a few at a time or wait for them all. Like the others, store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Let them overwinter (they probably wont make it in northern climates) and they will produce seed the next year. You may can all of these crops but there's nothing like the fresh version. They can also be frozen with differing results. The number one pest for most of the brassicas is the cabbage looper. Moths lay their eggs and the caterpillars will devastate your crop before you know it. I recommend spraying with Bacillus Thuringiensis, aka BT. It is a bacteria that kills the caterpillars. Your climate may be different so adjust accordingly. If you plan to save seeds it is imperative that you don't use hybrid varieties and that you separate them by a half mile or take other common measures to prevent cross-pollination. If you live next to a canola field, good luck, rape is in the same family. The seeds are in slender pods a few inches long and look like, yep, you guessed it, mustard seed. Some are black, brown, yellow and variations in between. Don't take all these different varieties of crops for granted. They are easy to grow and are high in vitamin C and other nutrients. They are also an excellent way to use your garden over the winter instead of letting it sit fallow. Now, go grow some cole crops. [caption id="attachment_474" align="aligncenter" width="800"]Farm Header/Logo Food so real its righteous![/caption]

Myth: The 22LR Survival Rifle

[caption id="attachment_1540" align="alignright" width="300"]22_penny_223 22_penny_223[/caption] I have said that if I hear one more person say that the 22 Long Rifle is the best all 'round prepper/survival cartridge,  I would challenge them to a duel at 50 paces (my 100yd pace count is 64 paces). I get an AR chambered in .223/5.56 (basically a heavier 22 going really fast) and they would get a 22LR and their choice of semi or bolt action rifle. From the low ready, go! Most folks who are into preparedness and survival aren't planning for getting stranded in a national forest and having to "survive" their way back to civilization shooting rabbits for sustenance. According to a study conducted about preppers, most are waiting for a financial collapse. In my view, a severe financial collapse entails much bigger varmints to contend with. Even natural disasters like Hurricane Katrina had it's varmints. That means self-defense.

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First we will talk combat pistol distances. I use the term combat pistol because if you are using a pistol for self defense, you are in close quarters combat. Inside of 25 meters is the realistic limit for pistol combat. Most altercations occur much closer in the 7-10 meter range. The exception being a transition from a dry or malfunctioning long gun/carbine to a pistol out of necessity. My carbine is my primary weapon if I have a choice but its not always practical or legal so sometimes my pistol is my primary. [caption id="attachment_1538" align="alignleft" width="175"]22Lr vs 5.56 5.56 vs 22Lr[/caption] At 10 yards a 40 grain 22LR out of a 20 inch barreled rifle has a velocity of about 1200 feet per second (fps) and about 135 foot pounds of energy. Keep in mind that out of a pistol things are dramatically less due to the decreased velocity associated with shorter barrels. For example, out of a revolver with a 2" barrel, the bullet will be about 850 fps and 70 foot pounds of energy and I'm being generous. The maximum practical effective range of the 22LR is (if you push it) 150yds. This is what the promoters 22LR folks have to contend with. It's factual. It's science. At the CAG we preach shot placement and consider it king.  However,  let's look at some other stats that bring this into perspective for the prepper. A common and affordable 9 mm cartridge is the 115 grain ball round.  Typically it is travelling at about 1200 fps and has about 350 ft lbs of energy at 10 meters. This is 2.5 times the energy of a 22LR with a larger wound channel. Rifles. Consider the 5.56/223. Out of a 16 inch barreled AR (one of the most popular, most versatile, modular, most common rifles in America that literally millions of Veterans are trained to use) the 5.56mm M855 screams out of a 16 inch barrel at about 3000 fps, with a 10 yard muzzle energy of around 1275 ft lb. The maximum effective range (M855) is 500 yards and can blow through 1/8th inch steel att that distance. I really don't think I need to do any more comparisons but......  Nearly everything else on the planet is better than the 22LR. There is a reason its not legal for medium/big game in most states.

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Yes,  it's cheap....well it used to be. It's hard to find in some locations nowadays.  Yes, you can slay some small game very cheaply, I'll concede that. I've killed more squirrels, groundhogs, coons and grouse than most with the 22LR. I use a 22LR when its time to butcher my hogs but my life doesn't depend on it dying immediately. I've also had two uncles shot with the 22LR and both lived,  one in the temple-- he lost his eye, the other nearly in the heart--he was fine. Both were shot at a distance of less than 10 feet. Again, we preach shot placement but who can afford those kinds of stats when there are much more viable survival rifle options. Some Pros and Cons to help you with your decision making process. Pros:
  • Cheap.
  • Lightweight platform and ammo.
  • Most common round in the world.
  • Superb training platform.
  • Doesn't destroy all the meat when harvesting game (with head shots anyway). When shooting 2 legged varmints, this is a Con.
  • Not much stopping power.
  • NOT a self-defense round.
  • Short range.
  • Unreliable. Many guns are finicky about the type of 22LR they will ingest and I have had tons of dented primers with no explosion.
These 4 simple Cons should be weighted heavily in your decision matrix, your life depends on it. There are a lot of internet stats and opinions out there and data can be manipulated and misinterpreted. I'm sure there's a chart that shows 22LR is more effective than 50BMG. I can tell you this, I have never been issued a 22LR weapon while serving in the Special Forces. Sure there was some dabbling with it as a silenced assassination weapon in Vietnam but I think I'd rather assassinate Abu Bakr Al Baghdadi with a suppressed 300AAC AR takedown gun than a suppressed Ruger 22/45. I digress, we were talking about survival and preparedness.

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I love the 22LR. It should be included in every preppers arsenal and every responsible kid should be taught to use them at an early age. But use it for what it's good for, small game and learning the fundamentals of pistol and rifle marksmanship on the cheap. A better option would be to have a brick of 22LR ammo and a drop in 22LR conversion kit stowed in your bug out bag. The best of both worlds. One may as well say that a high end 22 caliber pellet gun is the best survival weapon. After all, there are models that are comparable to some 22LR cartridges and they are not considered firearms.  Pellets are cheap and at least scalpers aren't buying them all up at Walmart to sell for double the price, they're quieter....but....that's another article. Any takers on the duel? [caption id="attachment_981" align="aligncenter" width="300"]Firearms, Tactical & Defense Training Firearms, Tactical & Defense Training[/caption]

Buckwheat for homesteading

Buckwheat is thought of as a grain but it's really more closely related to sorrel and rhubarb. Before the use of modern nitrogen fertilizers, a post WW2 use of excess bomb materials, buckwheat was a staple food. The true grains we use nowadays require much more nitrogen.11178275_1572800389641272_5070259401038013352_n Buckwheat has a quick life cycle and thrives in acid soil with low nitrogen. This makes it great for preppers/homesteaders for several reasons. It can produce a pseudo grain crop that has 18% protein in about 90 days. That's food for the family or livestock. If tilled in just after blooming in about 30 days, it provides bees with nectar for a nice dark honey and can then be tilled in as a green manure. It also suppresses weeds so it makes a good cover crop.
It can be boiled and eaten or ground into flour for most things you would use wheat flour to make. Pancakes, bread, pasta etc. It can even be fermented for beer and whiskey. It is gluten free so it's great for those with celiac disease.11111961_1572800462974598_5004626884497548269_n The hulls can be used as filler for pillows or bedding. The leaves can be used in tea and even has positive effects in those with diabetes. Don't leave buckwheat out of your plans. Waiting for wheat, barley and oats to mature may not be an option. A crop of buckwheat can hold you off until those crops can be harvested. I grow it for the bees and let the chickens forage through and get the seed. On the downside, it can run rampant through a pasture if allowed to go to seed but that's an easy fix. Buckwheat can also be planted in the pasture as forage or cut for hay at 1-3 tons per acre.

Most preppers are doing it wrong!

According to results from a study conducted by Michael Mills, a PhD candidate from the University of Kent in Canterbury, England, most preppers are white, Christian leaning, conservative, have a degree, live in rural small town areas and are prepping for economic collapse. The next reason for prepping was "All Others". Who knows what that entails but I assume between Economic Collapse (33.3%), Major Natural Disaster (18.7%), All Others (26%) and Civil/International War (3.3%) there must be some martial law, looters, government oppression and general chaos involved. With only 8.3% of preppers living in cities those populations will be woefully unprepared to say the least. Suburbanites account for 33.3% of preppers, the highest of any group. However, if you lump rural and small towns together, after all, it's basically the same category, the numbers reach 52.9%. It is estimated that there are about 3+ million preppers in the US, or less than 1% of the US population. I find that hard to believe. There are a lot of preppers that avoid the moniker for fear of being stereotyped in a category that includes Neo Nazis, Black Panthers, Tin Foil Hatters and the like. Folks like those in the Back to the Land movement, organic and self - sufficient gardeners and farmers, along with a host of others that shy away from the term and do not get included in the numbers. Green Beret moderated forum for only $1 a month! As Green Berets, we have actually lived in just about any SHTF venue there is,  like Economic collapse, failed states, natural disasters, power black outs, famine.... the list goes on. We see time and time again how conjecture has polluted the sense of what to expect. Even now, many people look at a crisis on television, and say to themselves, it will be different here.... Reality is a B*#$@H. In this article, we try and take an objective look at what the current division among preppers looks like through the lens of experienced and seasoned world travelers.  Inside the prepper world there are 5 types:  The Tacticool Prepper: Buys a slew of guns, ammo and enough tactical gear to make a Tier 1 Operator look like he's wearing pajamas and carrying a pellet gun. This guy is the one to watch out for! He's going to become a looter and take your preps! [caption id="attachment_1189" align="aligncenter" width="300"]Look ma! Im an assaulter, just like on TV! Look ma! Im an assaulter, just like on TV![/caption] The Conscientious Objector: Buys a ton of bulk foods and seed bank supplies, grows some food but thinks guns are scary and evil. Tacticool Prepper and the Concientious Objector will meet each other or the unprepared  masses soon after SHTF. The stronger force will prevail. [caption id="attachment_1183" align="aligncenter" width="300"]Thank you for gathering MY food supplies! Thank you for gathering MY food supplies![/caption] The Balanced Prepper: Buys some guns and ammo, buys a year's worth of bland bulk foods and beanie weenies. Gets tired of wheatberries and jerkey just in time to get looted by Tacticool. In a long term crisis he will eventually either get looted by a superior force or run out of food, at which point he will die or become a looter himself. [caption id="attachment_1184" align="aligncenter" width="300"]I will be the one who defies all of human history! I will be the one who defies all of human history![/caption] The Practical Prepper: Buys some guns, ammo and bulk food but begins a journey towards self-sufficiency. Takes classes on canning, field craft, medicine, commo, marksmanship, tactics and becomes an overall jack of all trades. He trains regularly and his family is familiar with the art of combat and how to live like a homesteader. Several skilled friends and their families plan to bug out to him in a crisis.  Or maybe he bugs out to someone like him but with more land and resources. In the end, they are no match for hardened looters craving food and supplies. There are simply not enough of them to maintain their existence and maintain the vigilance required to fight off any threats. Take my family of 4 as an example. We consist of one male with 16 years in Special Forces and a huge skill set from farming to nation building, a female with some firearms training and homestead skills, one male with 3 years in Artillery and double that as a Call of Duty  warrior, a 14 y/o that has some tactical training and Call of Duty virtual combat and a 3 y/o. There is no way we can sustain the farm and hold off looters for a prolonged length of time.

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[caption id="attachment_40" align="aligncenter" width="300"]Member training! Diversified[/caption] The SF minded prepper: Makes a conscious decision to seek out like minded individuals that share the same belief system. If he can't find those people in his immediately area, he moves to them and sets up shop as a Practical Prepper mentioned above. A community of practical preppers, living a normal life, independent of each other yet close enough to protect and help each other through any event from a tornado to martial law, they will survive and thrive. Prior to any event they have worked and trained together to ensure they have all the skills and tools necessary. They have developed what is known in the Special Forces world as an auxiliary force. That is, a local force or network that can provide logistics and support because they have a vested interest in doing so. Between them, there are enough able bodied trained individuals to ward off all but a trained Infantry Battalion by using unconventional tactics. They don't flaunt themselves in surplus store fatigues and gear, they blend in and out when necessary. [caption id="attachment_913" align="aligncenter" width="300"]Relax learning atmosphere with small groups Relax learning atmosphere with small groups[/caption] That is why we emphasize the sustainable aspect of prepping. Not everyone can own a farm and hold down a job, I get it. Now is the time to network. Now is the time to practice those skills on your half acre plot in the subdivision. It does no good to load your bugout bag with nothing but ammo and a bag of jerky. You need a knife and the skills to sustain yourself with other food sources when the jerky runs out. It's not about gear, it's about skills and community. LOGO PNG



This weeks featured livestock: The Turkey!

People often forget the turkey as a viable meat source. Most tend to think of chickens. There are several good reasons for it. Turkeys are loud. Brakes squeaking can get toms to gobble. Hens are always chirping. When toms strut they make a drumming noise. Like a rooster crowing in the subdivision, these noises sometimes don't go over too well with neighbors, home owners association and or local ordinances. They don't lay eggs all year round which makes them more

Turkeys, The forgotten poultry. People often forget the turkey as a viable meat source.  Most tend to think of chickens. There are several good reasons for it. Turkeys are loud.  Brakes squeaking can get toms to gobble. Hens are always chirping.  When toms strut they make a drumming noise. Like a rooster crowing in the subdivision,  these noises sometimes don't go over too well with neighbors, home owners association and or local ordinances.  They don't lay eggs all year round which makes them more

of a meat bird. Most people keep chickens just for eggs so that puts the turkey at a disadvantage when comparing the two. Turkey a eggs are quite large and taste like a chicken egg.

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Baby turkeys are called poults. Unlike  the chicken's 21 day incubation period, the turkey requires 28 days. Like chickens they must be kept warm in a brooder until they can regulate their own body heat. You'll want to have the broader set up and prepared before receiving your poults. Gradually lower the heat at ground level from 90 degrees by 5 degrees per week. If it's over 75 degrees outside, they can go out once they are a month and a half old. You will need to have a high protein feed ready for them, something in the 20% and higher range. Like all livestock,  water 24/7 is a must.  You'll need one waterer per 25 birds. This is for space not volume. So select a waterer adequate for their needs or refill it as often needed. [caption id="attachment_861" align="aligncenter" width="300"]TurkeyChicks Courtesy of mother earth news[/caption] The breed you have chosen will determine the length of time until harvest. The broad breasted bronze or white will take about 6 months to reach 20-25 lbs. A lot longer than a chicken but several times the weight.  This breed also has the largest amount of breast meat,  the kind we are used to. Heritage birds may never reach that weight and wild ones take much longer. A broad breasted bronze will have 3-4 times the breast meat than even the biggest wild turkey.  Harvest just like chickens.

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We have a few different breeds and some mutts. My favorite is the midget white. It's a smaller bird with a large breast. The breed allows us to cook an entire bird without having Thanksgiving style leftovers for weeks. This can be an important consideration for preppers and those off the grid folks where refrigerator space and electricity are finite. turkey_dinner_ll_131112_16x9_608 Once they're grown they are very hardy. Standard housing as used for chickens may need some slight adjustment to accommodate the larger size of turkeys. They are also quite amazing to watch with Jakes vying for position and toms strutting and drumming in the pasture. Now, go get your gobble on.

Understanding Sweetcorn

10339633_682433831851911_3810983810644209512_nWhen you open a seed catalog and flip to the corn section, it can get confusing.  There's bicolor corn, su, se, sh2, pop corn, dent corn, hybrid, and field corn. So, I'll attempt to explain this so you can make informed preparedness decisions on which type suits your needs.
Just as a baby in the womb has half the DNA from the mother carrying her and half the DNA from the father, each kernel of corn has half the DNA from the plant it is growing on and half from the plant that provided the pollen. The pollen comes from the tassel and is spread by the wind. It lands on the silks and fertilizes a seed. This makes it necessary to separate the different types of corn unless you want corn that is half sweet corn and half something else, like popcorn. The genes that make corn sweet are all recessive genes which means you must have two copies for the resulting corn to be sweet. See how wind blowing pollen from your neighbors purple ornamental corn could really screw up your sweetcorn crop? The genes that make corn sweet are sugary (su), sugar enhanced (se) and shrunken-2 (sh2). The su gene is "normal" sweetcorn that your grandparents raised. It produces more sugar than field corn which has the dominant Su1 starch gene. Remember that sweetcorn is harvested before maturity.  If allowed to sit too long, the sugars convert to starch in preparation to become a viable seed. So, this type of corn, su, must be harvested and go straight to the pot to be eaten or canned.  The se varieties also have the su gene and in conjunction,  produce a sweeter corn than is more tender. If both plants have this gene, then the cob will have 100% sweet kernels. Since the kernels start out sweet the additionally sugary goodness of the su genes keep it sweeter longer. Therefore, timing it isn't as critical with it's harvest and use.  The varieties that contain sh2 are supersweet.  This gene slows the conversion of the sugar to starch. Supersweet corn can stay sweet for about 3 weeks if kept near freezing. Selecting for these traits didn't come without pitfalls. Due to the smaler amount of starch in each kernel, it is harder to get started and requires a higher soil temperature for planting. To make matters worse, some supersweet varieties do not have the su gene but instead have the Su (starch) gene. So when pollinated by other supersweet or normal corn varieties,  you get starchy corn like field corn. So isolate them from sugar enhanced and normal corn. There are some other variants that don't fit into these categories.  Synergistic (sy) and augmented shrunken are two. Synergistic has multiple copies of genes and a brittle gene, to produce a super sweet corn that doesn't have the seed vigor problem you see with supersweet (sh2) varieties. Synergistic corn must be isolated from sh2.  Augmented shrunken has 2 copies of sh2 and se. It's super sweet and not as crunchy. It must be harvested by hand but that's what preppers will do anyway. It has the same seed vigor problem as sh2 corn. It needs to be isolated from all the other types. Keep in mind that sweetcorn is for eating fresh or canning.  I'll get into corn for grinding in a bit. Here are a few examples: Normal, open pollinated, non hybrid sweetcorn (su) Country Gentleman (white), Golden Bantam,  Golden Bantam Improved, Jubilee (yellow), Sugar Dots and Quickie (bicolor). se-Bodacious and Kandy Korn (my favorite yellow corn), Silver King  and Whiteout (white), Peaches & Cream and Sugarbaby (bicolor). sh2 - summer Sweet Yellow, Krispy King (yellow), Summer Sweet White, Aspen (white), Honey & Pearl, Phenomenal (bicolor) sy- Honeysweet(yel), Silver Dutchess(wht), Montauk(bi). Augmented- Extra Sweet,  yellow,  white, bicolor. Personally I'm fond of Kandy Korn. Every other year I'll plant some Golden Bantam just to keep seed for SHTF. Popcorn is self explanatory. Field corn is all corn that is not sweetcorn. There are two categories, dent and flint. Flint corn is hard (as flint) and is also known as Indian corn. It comes in many colors and can be made into hominy or popped. Dent corn dries with a dent in the round end. Their are open pollinated,  hybrid and genetically modified versions (microscopic gene manipulation in a laboratory as opposed to hand pollinating).  According to the USDA, the majority of hybrid yellow dent corn is used for livestock feed, oils, plastics, ethanol and other industrial production. The white hybrid dent corn is used for masa, torillas, chips, snacks and starch. For the prepper, there are several open pollinated cultivars that that are suitable for both livestock feed and fresh eating,  though not as sweet as what you are accustomed to. Some of those are: Truckers Favorite,  Goliath, Hickory King and others. Don't think you will be able to survive on field corn. Once dry, it's as hard as woodpecker lips and needs to be boiled in ashes to soften it up, sort like making hominy. You also aren't going to pick a few ears and grow some good eating corn with the seed. My suggestion is the approach I have taken. Live for today and plan for tomorrow. Grow whatever variety of sweetcorn you want now and can it. Grow another open pollinated non hybrid version every so often to get used to its growing characteristics and flavor, then save seed. AL




Finally a forum!

Come join CAG! We are growing and this is a great opportunity to enjoy the same format and information that was being provided in the Facebook group Special Forces Preppers. If you weren't a part of the group, now is the time to follow along and become a part of a community of preparedness minded folks that is ran by real Special Forces operators. Get tips and training from experts in guerilla medicine and warfare, survival, evasion, homesteading,  weapons and tactics. No one else offers the experience and expertise in these disciplines, oriented towards preparedness like the CAG does. The CAG forum or CAG NET is a subscription based networking tool for pro active preppers, free from the constraints of social media rules. It features:
  • File sharing
  • Private messaging
  • Subject matter expertise in theme driven discussions and dialogue
  • Direct Special Forces operator to audience feedback on questions
  • Crowd sourcing information and serves as an affordable means to networking nationally and locally for subscribers
  • Free for CAG members!


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